Scooter mania...

When hanging out in the islands of Thailand, having a motor bike or a scooter  is almost essential. Yes, being an island, everything is mostly within walking distance. The markets are all 5-10 minutes away and the beaches are the same. But with a motor bike, you can see more of the islands in less amounts of time. 

Having adventures with a scooter gang adds a whole new dimension of island traveling. The sound of everyone around you, mostly new friends, revving their tiny little scooter engines is the cutest/manliest thing you have ever heard. Plus the rush of riding down the road with an entourage is incredible. The wind rushing over your face while you all search the treetops for monkeys is quite amusing. We all get the airport look. But, I would be careful because you never know when that car will come around the bend and be driving in your lane. 

The Thai massage...

The whole world knows that Thailand has incredible massages. They twist and turn your body into positions you normally couldn't attain yourself. So what would a trip to Thailand be without a massage? Challenge accepted. 

Mauro and I go to a super fancy place that gives you little slippers to wear throughout the intricate and maze like mansion. We get to our rooms and split, one per room. Inside, there is a table, a shower, a chair and counter with a bunch of items for he masseuse. This is where she warms up the oils. 

After showering and putting on a mesh banana hammock, she comes back into the room and starts to give me a head massage. This was the most bizarre head massage I have ever gotten. My noggin was literally being slapped like djembe. She moved all throughout my head and neck in a slapping and squeezing frenzy. 

Then it was to the table. I started on my stomach and was truly underwhelmed by what was to come. There was no stretching and there was no power or order to her massage. It was a random act of putting slight pressure on different back and leg muscles. When I turned over, it was more or less the same. Because of this I had noted to get a second opinion. It was s true disappointment to what my expectations were. 

Meat on a stick...

Bangkok, sin city of the world where anything goes. From ping pong shows to prostitutes a price can be bargained. But why is the spotlight mainly focused on the red light district of this historical and kind city? Filling the streets on carts and folding tables is the iconic food of Thailand. 

Green papaya being muddled with peanuts and coconut palm sugar stands next to grandmothers frying spring rolls and vegetable fritters. The sweet and spicy air currents play at your nostrils while pork, chicken and squid are grilled over red hot coals. It is truly amazing what these cooks can do with the bare minimum space and equipment. 

Of all the carts and stands that line the streets in Silom, my favorite by far are the women with one wok and a few sauces and spices. With the speed of the flash and the muscle memory of a master, she fries some garlic pepper and onion together until the aroma smacks your nose. Then comes the morning glory, beans and chicken with the sauces, spices ad basil to come quickly after. She composes a perfect symphony in under 3 minutes and does it with one pot, one utensil and about 4 square feet. 

Side note...

Travelling the world solo, you see historical artifacts, cultural dynasties and national pride. It is the unfortunate truth that as you see these incredible sights throughout different countries, they all seem to have the same meaning in a different language. This is not to say that one is any less important or beautiful than the other; if anything it makes you appreciate each detail in a different manner. Once this begins to happen, you as a traveler begin to realize that it is the people you travel with that makes the memory what it is. The connections made between like minded internationals will form life long bonds because of that one night you had in that province of the incredible country. Each day, we meet people who are on the search for a new experience and new interactions. With that, we get new companions to share meals and drinks with. That, for me, is the the most important part. sharing unknown food with new friends.

In the words of Afroman, Goodmorning...

Of all the adventures, mishaps, stories and connections made in Japan, there is only one that I was looking forward to the most. Tsukiji Market, the largest fish market in the world, takes place every day except for Sundays, hamdling a total amount of approximately 6 billion US dollars a year. That is correct, a 6 with 000,000,000 at the end. There is so much history that runs through the warehouses and streets around the market. Many people don't realize that this market was not originally in Tsukiji, and it wasn't always named Tsukiji.

The First fish market, located by the Nihomboshi bridge in the Edo canal was destroyed by an earthquake in September, 1923. The market was then relocated to the Tsukiji district and is where the world goes to buy their top line tuna everyday.

The excitement in the air was overwhelmed by the aroma of grilled fish, dried seafood and boiling bones. Every corner turned into a whirling frenzy of pushing crowds and pushcarts. There was not enough room to stand up straight if you were over 5'7" and you were forced to turn sideways to walk. The best part was watching all of the tourists look at some products with total disgust or confusion. There is such a diverse inventory of dried fish, seaweed, squids, seafoods and even sweets. Shops were exploding out of their store fronts with cooking utensils and chinaware. To say it is an amazing market is the largest understatement ever said. If you find yourself in japan at all in your lifetime, this is a MUST SEE.

Yakitori alley...

Have you ever heard of the stupid American charge? Most countries will have a small fee to eat and/or drink for foreigners; especially the American tourist. Whilst on Mauros first night in japan, we went to a yakitori restaurant in Shinjuku. Little did we know there was a charge, otoshi, where it is a state wide charge to drink in a restaurant. So, we decide not to pay that "small charge" of 800 yen and pay only for our food. Not 30 seconds after walking out of the restaurant and onto the street, the entire restaurant staff surrounds us with smiles, politely asking us to please pay the mandatory fee. We decided it was for the best to comply with the staff as to not get arrested. At least we learned our lesson about that!

To follow, we stumbled upon the actual yakitori alley. Our hearing was taken over by the sound of meats sizzling over red hot coals and our nose was swarming with caramelizing sugars and charred chicken hearts. Inside these hallway like restaurants, there are people from all corners of the world chowing down on this age old delicacy of Japan. We finally come to a decision of where to eat and right in front of us is a sign that says, "otoshi, mandatory charge to drink". Mauro and I both looked at each other and laughed. Our very recent escapade turned out to be a stupid American idea. From then on, we had no issue of paying the drinking charge.

Once we made our decisions to eat chicken hearts, pig tongue, liver, gizzard and kidney, we gorged our gullets with the ancient delicacies. Each one of the skewers were just as flavorful as the last and all cooked to perfection. We could not have made a better decision of where to get yakitori. It was well worth the adventures and it proved to be a pretty great story. "How we almost got arrested in Tokyo".

Ramenya...

Ramen. The chewy noodle that makes a perfect nest for a soft yolked egg and succulent roast pork to lay next to crunchy bamboo and delicate, crispy nori. All of this is gently swimming in a clean golden broth that is packed with so much flavor but not overpowering. Every single bite that you take will send shivers down your spine to your toes. 

As you close your eyes, you can taste the distinct levels of flavor running circles around your palate. You even have the option to add some spice or tang if you are up for the challenge. This is the perfect bowl of ramen in my eyes. Outstanding down to the last drop. 

Knives...

One of the main reasons why I came to Japan was to buy a knife. This knife had to be special and call my name from miles away. The world knows that Japan is the leading power of sword and knife smithing. They have been for a thousand years and more. It only makes sense to honor that tradition and bring a knife home from one of these masters. 

I did some research and found a knife smith in Kyoto. This shop has been open since 1190, pre onin war. For generations upon generations, the Shigeharu name has been forging Strong and proper Japanese steel. It is a privelage and an honor to have a knife from this ancient establishment. 

Knife master hand hammering my name and his into my Deba, fish knife. 

Deer friends in Nara...

Do you recall ever seeing a sign that says do not feed the wildlife? In the Nara prefecture, they encourage you to feed the white tailed deer roamin freely around the park. You are sole a pack of biscuits for 150 yen and it's at that point you become extremely popular amongst the deer. 

These deer are for the most part friendly unless you give them a hard time getting the biscuit. They show their love for you with a nudging head and an adorable nose run on your shorts. If they are really "starved" for attention, you may get a little nip on the but or your shirt. 

"Come on man... Feed me!"

These fellows and ladies live the life of royalty. They are fed daily by hand of a thousand servants, roam the fields to their hearts desire, and are surrounded by absolutely stunning gardens and temples. It is as if they were worshiped here at some point in history... Oh wait, they were. 

Hunt for the bamboo pathway...

Growing up, I always imagined Japan to be filled with bamboo forests, monkeys, Samurai and ninjas. For the most part, was entirely wrong. The samurai have long been extinct from the late 1800's and the ninja are hidden in the shadows. That was half of my imagination. There was only one spot that I visited where there were some monkeys and that was Arashiyama. 

I did not go and see the monkeys, a bit too expensive for my travels, but while in Arashiyama, I had the privelage to see the bamboo walkway we have all seen on Instagram and Google. This is where the fun begins. 

I arrive in this small village around noon and stand in the bridge traversing the Ukyo-ku River to get my bearings. Upriver, there is a pathway that leads to a bend. Deciding to follow that path, I walk about 500 meters to the end of the trail. To my disappointment, there is no bamboo forest and no trail leadin further on: fail. 

After searching for about an hour or so, I met a couple from Hong Kong who was also looking for the famed bamboo pathway. We walked through zen temples and shopping streets until we finally stumbled upon a sign that said bamboo path is 90 meters to the left. We looked at each other and laughed. 

It was an enlightened pathway that was flooded with tourists and cameras. Mine was right there with it all. Standing at the beginning it the path with my eyes closed and focusing on breathing, I was able to memorize the scene that was laid out before me. 

That's when it all made sense. We need to protect and serve the land as it does to us. We have to stop killing our homes with poor agriculture. That moment is when I knew the path I must take my cooking. Standing at the beginning of the perfectly sporadic bamboo proved to me that he natural order is the strongest and most sustainable for the entire environment. 

Shrine hopping...

Kyoto, known for its traditional styles and architecture, is filled to the brim with a large community of Buddhist temples and shrines. Consider walking down the streets in New York looking for an Irish pub. Every street there will be atleast one with its doors open and taps flowing. The same applies to the temples and shrines. 

You could turn up a random alleyway that looks dead to the world and still find a small shrine with a beautifully decorated Buddha. For the good ones though, it was a small hike and a lot of stairs to get to the entrance. 

For me, there isn't much to say about the shrines and temples. Their exquisite beauty and stillness simply take your breath away. With each corner cane a different surprise; a garden with a pond, a cobwebbed filled cemetery, a small reflection hut. Each a treasure in their perspective rights. 

In one day, I covered only 2 miles of land but saw 7 large temples and shrines;  2 in maruyama park, hōnen shōnin midō, yasaka shrine, kyomizudera, doju-in, fushimi inari taisha. The entire day, I must have said 20 words all day. At one temple, Kyomizudera, there were monks praying in the main temple. The sound of them chanting was hypnotizing and humbling. 

Today, seeing all of these monuments and all the old architecture, I felt a sense of home. The Japanese people truly believe. The community as a whole understands what it means to live peacefully Among each other in a clean and safe environment. Why can't the rest of the world?

Quail egg as tako brains...

The market. A collection of the best produce available at the time. Each day, farmers bring the fruits of their labor to the centralized market to sell. This has been a part of the worlds culture since recorded time. 

In Kyoto, there is a market called Nishiki market. It runs on one street for about 6 long blocks. Inside you will find a bounty of food, souvenirs, knives, spices and tea. Each stall is masterfully organized ergonomically to ensure all the given space is optimized. From giant tubs of pickles in koji to make your own pepper mix stations, they had it all plus space to walk. 

The gentlemen above were swift with their knives to break down 40 chickens. 

The best part of this market, aside from all the pickles, master butchers and incredible rice, was the prepared food. The two to three bite morsels on a stick with ribbons of kewpie and tonkatsu atop. Some sellers had sweet potato with extremely crunchy breading while others had grilled eel and traditional egg blocks (tamago). It was heaven for the taste buds of anyone. 

This was truly just a teaser because it made me more excited to make way to Tokyo for Tsukiji market. But it was an incredible teaser to eat my way through. 

Club masters...

Being a tall white person in the heart of Osaka is a very strange roll to play; especially if you go out to a club that is packed to the walls with local Japanese youth. We went as a group of two Canadians an Aussie and myself, all atleast 6 feet tall. 

Not only do we stand out amongst the sea of dancers, the locals wanted to take pictures with us. It was a very strange feeling but made for a very fun filled night. I got to see just a little bit deeper into the tangled culture of mingling in Japan. 

As the night progressed, faces became familiar and guards started to drop. With a sense of comfortability, the dancing became a bit more promiscuous and free. Each song sent a lightning bolt of energy through each person that inspired more dancing. By the end of it, we were all wiped and left the club grinning madly. 

Like white on rice...

Sushi. What about these individually shaped morsels is so appealing to our palate? To our eye, only two components make up this sensational bite; perfectly cleaned and masterfully sliced fish and warm, tangy rice. How then, can these two ingredients produce such a wave of sensations throughout our beings?

Long ago, before the whole world knew of sushi, it was a form of preservation. The fish would be fermented for about a year with some other ingredients, vinegar, veggies etcetera. In order to be remotely edible, the Japanese would pair the fish with rice. Little did they know they had changed the course of history for man kinds stomach. 

It was truly a joy to be taken to a tiny sushi spot in the ever winding alleyways of Tsuruhashi. The company who brought me just so happened to be fantastic Keiseki chefs whom I worked with in NYC. While we weaved our way through the silent, shadow cast market, they kept asking me if everything was ok for me to eat. "I am in Japan, EVERYTHING is ok" would be my most common response.

Due to this response, a wave of fish and rice barreled our way for the better part of an hour: Maguro, kanpachi, shima Aji, sawara, chu toro, iwasa, shiro ebi, kaibashira, anago cucumber, tako, tai, ika, botan ebi, ebi head, turban shell (tsubukai), katsuo, tamago. There was never a falter of speed and delight. I was simply blown away. These wonderful people, just as with the Keiseki meal, honored me with an unforgettable experience wth sushi in Japan. 

Get your Keiseki on...

For my first true meal in Japan, I was lucky enough to have met up with Suzuki San. He asked if I wanted to try Osaka Keiseki and of course I agreed in a heartbeat. We went to one of his colleagues restaurants that was on the corner of two streets. (I wouldn't be able to tell you where if I tried). As per custom, we stopped by a bake shop and picked up some treats for the kitchen. 

The first thing that I noticed in the restaurant was the subdued beauty of he layout. The walkway entrance had a glass pathway with pebbles to bring a sense of earth to the hall. To the left, a warm glow emended from the doorway to the kitchen bar and community seating. To the right, rice paper doors separated larger tables for private party's of no more than 6-7 people. They 12 feet of walking from the entrance to the bar was extremely humbling and inviting. 

Following the customary introductions, our meal quickly took shape. The flavors and ingredients shouted the beginning of fall. Even as familiar as the techniques and flavors were, there was something different about it that I didn't have in NYC. The food was in its place and with that, everything shone out just a bit more. The simplicity of each dish, having 2-5 components each, strongly reinforced how important it is to pay close attention to every single detail. With less on the plate, you had more time to focus on each component individually and all as one. I'll leave you with these pictures to help you understand a bit more. Enjoy!!